Saturday, June 19, 2010

it's challah time

This loaf is such a success that I've made it again and again, always to a warm reception.

Challah, adapted ever-so-slightly from Food & Wine
3 tablespoons sesame seeds
1 1/2 tablespoons caraway seeds
1 1/2 tablespoons anise seeds
2 1/2 tsp active dry yeast
2 cups lukewarm water
5 cups bread flour
2 1/2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
2 tablespoons honey*
1 tablespoon kosher salt
Cornmeal for dusting
2 large egg yolks*
  1. In a skillet, toast the sesame, caraway and anise seeds over moderate heat until fragrant, 2 minutes; transfer to a plate and let cool. In a small bowl, combine the yeast with 2 tablespoons of the water and let stand until thoroughly moistened, about 5 minutes. *Note: I just dry roasted the seeds in a sauce pan.
  2. In the bowl of a standing electric mixer fitted with the dough hook, combine the flour with the olive oil, the honey and the remaining water and mix at low speed until a very soft dough forms. Add the kosher salt, yeast mixture and all but 1 tablespoon of the seeds and mix at medium-low speed until the dough is supple and smooth, 10 minutes. Using oiled hands, transfer the dough to a large oiled bowl. Cover the bowl with plastic wrap and let stand in a draft-free spot until the dough is risen, 1 hour. *Note: I used an electric hand mixer; I found that after 3-5 minutes the dough was okay, then finished kneading it by hand (in the bowl).
  3. Lightly oil 2 small cookie sheets and dust them with cornmeal. Turn the dough out onto a lightly floured work surface and press to deflate. Cut the dough in half and let rest for 5 minutes. Roll each piece into an 18-inch-long rope and let rest for 5 minutes longer, then roll each rope into a 32-inch rope. Beginning at the center and working outwards, form each rope into a coil; tuck the ends under the coils. *Note: I used parchment; you can either make a boil or a braid, depending on how the spirit moves you.
  4. Transfer each coil to a baking sheet and cover each loaf with a large, inverted bowl. Let stand for 1 hour, until the loaves have nearly doubled in bulk. *Note: The bowl works fine to cover, but a small (that is to say, light) tea towel works just as well.
  5. Preheat the oven to 400°. In a bowl, whisk the egg yolks with 1 tablespoon of water. Brush the egg wash over the loaves and let stand uncovered for 30 minutes. Brush with the egg wash once more and sprinkle with the reserved 1 tablespoon of seeds. Bake the loaves side-by-side in the center of the oven for 30 minutes, until they’re golden and sound hollow when tapped on the bottom. Transfer the loaves to racks and let cool completely before slicing.
For the vegan version (served at Concerto Soloists) I replaced the honey with maple syrup. Rather than brushing with egg, I just used olive oil. Admittedly, this does not work as well as the seeds tend to fall off, but still tastes delicious. Or so I am told.

Friday, June 18, 2010

root vegetable gratin

Served at the Art of Song, June 4th 2010.

I adapted this from Food & Wine; you might have to make some small alterations to the recipe as I (of course) didn't record what I did the first time I made it.

Root Vegetable Gratin; adapted from this recipe.
2 large sweet potatoes, peeled
1 butternut squash neck (2 1/4 pounds) from a large butternut squash, peeled
1 large golden beet, peeled
Kosher salt and freshly ground pepper
1 cup Parmigiano-Reggiano
generous tablespoon fresh thyme, chopped
generous tablespoon fresh basil, chopped
1 clove garlic, smashed and chopped
3 tablespoons AP flour
1/4 cup (or less) low-sodium chicken broth
3/4 cup panko (Japanese bread crumbs)
1 1/2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
  1. Preheat the oven to 375°. Using a mandoline, slice the potatoes and squash lengthwise 1/8 inch thick. Slice the beet crosswise 1/8 inch thick.
  2. Grate cheese and combine in small bowl with salt, pepper, thyme, basil, garlic, and flour.
  3. Grease an 8-by-12-inch glass baking dish with butter or olive oil. Arrange half of the potatoes in the dish, overlapping them slightly; drizzle with olive oil; season with cheese mixture. Top with half of the beets and the squash, oiling and seasoning each layer. Repeat the layering. Pour the broth over and around the vegetables.
  4. Cover tightly with foil and bake for 1 hour, until the vegetables are almost tender when pierced. Remove the foil and bake for about 30 minutes longer, until the liquid has reduced.
  5. Preheat the broiler. Mix the panko with the oil and season with salt and pepper; sprinkle over the gratin. Broil 3 inches from the heat for 2 minutes, until golden, rotating for even browning. Let the gratin stand for 10 minutes, then serve.
*Note: for the vegan version, just omit the cheese, increase the herbs (to your taste) and reduce the flour. If I had been feeling ambitious, I may have attempted a nut-based cheese...just a thought.

I doubled this, and I had a HUGE amount of vegetables left--I was eating sweet potato chips for days. Aside from an incredible surplus, everything else worked pretty well. The original recipe calls for rutabaga instead of beets, but the color of the golden beet is hard to...beat...they are so beautiful!